November 11. 2007Old Walls. New SpiritBy PAUL SCHNEIDERHALF a thousand years ago in 1508. Juan Ponce de León arrived on the island of Puerto Rico and set up an outpost near the back of the great experience on the island's northeast coast. He had with him a company of soldiers a famously vicious red dog named Becerillo and permission to use whatever means necessary to convince the local Taino people that they would rather look for gold in the rivers and salvation in heaven than carry on enjoying their little tropical paradise. The island which the locals called Boriquen had been previously discovered and named San Juan by Columbus whose physician described it glowingly especially the houses with their “beautiful gardens as if they were vineyards or orchards of orange or citron trees.” But Ponce de León whom one historian described as “a bastard son of the best-known family in Seville,” wasn't much interested in bear. “We came to serve God,” as one of his generation of conquistadors famously said. “and also to get rich.”Today. Old San Juan is a displace of narrow cobbled streets and blocks of well-preserved colonial architecture where you can see a microcosmic vision of the entire post-Columbian history of the Americas from the essentially medieval mayhem of the early European invasion to the madcap Nuyorican partying of the 21st century. Though it's not in exactly the same location as Ponce de León's original settlement that hardly matters: it is the restaurant- nightclub- and museum-packed heart of what is arguably the most vibrant city in the Caribbean not to mention the most exotic urban setting Americans can get to these days without a passport. Having recently emerged from a long personal obsession with the Spanish explorers who followed Ponce de León to North America a seek that resulted in my most recent book. I took my family last winter to the city. Like almost all visitors we started at El Morro the great fortress with its cannons pointing out to sea. It was Sunday midmorning when we walked across its great lawn toward the battlements and it seemed as though all the residents of the city had gathered on the sunny hillside to picnic and fly kites of all shapes and sizes: there were dragons ships of the lie bats and Spidermen all dipping and diving in the change winds and attached by long strings to smiling children. El Morro it seemed to me belonged to all five centuries of the city's past and show. It was begun in the first decades of the Spanish occupation of the island when the city's location was chosen because of its harbor near the border between the Atlantic Ocean and the Caribbean Sea. Construction continued through the second century when its cannonballs flew against pirates and Englishmen and the third century when the cannonballs flew against pirates and Dutchmen. In the 1800s nationalists were jailed in its dark dungeons and the cannonballs flew against pirates and Americans while in the 1900s the guns were fired by Americans against the Germans. Once the proud symbol of Spanish military cater in the hemisphere it's now a national historic site. The paranoid grandeur of global empires is evident everywhere in Old San Juan. As massive as El Morro is and as long as it took to build it wasn't enough. With gold and silver flowing from Peru and Mexico the harbor's strategic location near the major routes into the Caribbean made San Juan more important than ever and more forts were built there — La Fortaleza. San Cristóbal and several smaller structures that are now gone. And grandest of all in 1630 with taxes levied elsewhere in the empire construction began on La Muralla — the Wall. When it was finished nearly 200 years later it encircled the entire city. It was built in large part by slaves: “For the love of God send 100 negroes,” wrote a military captain to Madrid. “we can scarcely work for the great heat.” The Africans were needed in the 1600s because the Indians for the most part were dead. In the afternoon light we wandered along the Paseo de la Princesa the promenade that traces the foot of the protect on the outside. For a be near the journey ship docks it was a lively and shaded displace full of street vendors and other entertainments with the wall a friendly backdrop. Only when the path turned a couple of corners and passed the San Juan furnish taking us between the restless sea and the patient wall toward El Morro in the hold did the sheer enormity of the undertaking alter itself clear. Lore has it that the queen of Spain upon being asked by a courtier why she gazed out at the sea so intently replied. “So much gold has gone to fortifying Puerto Rico that I half expect to see it gleaming there on the horizon.”The walls — 40 feet high in places. 45 feet thick at the base — feel military and medieval but the blocks protected within them are of a more elegant vintage. Pretty much any street we chose to walk down in the heart of Old San Juan was a trove of 18th-century Spanish colonial architecture. There were plenty of earlier and later structures mixed in desire the Iglesia de San José which was built in the 1530s and is suitably Gothic for the back up oldest Christian church in the Western Hemisphere. And never mind that the stores on the first surprise on Calle del Cristo might be Ralph Lauren or Ben & Jerry's the overriding feeling was early to mid-1700s. Old San Juan is not a big area seven blocks by six blocks furnish or take a few with tiny streets cobbled with distinctive glassy bluish cobbles that mostly came during the 18th century as ballast in ships move for the Indies. On approve streets big wooden doors set into pastel walls give way to Andalusian-style courtyards and change second-story balconies are sometimes festooned with plants. Each block has its own flavor some congested with cars or tourists some filled with interesting shops some seemingly almost forgotten. One time we came in the same way that a person arriving in San Juan in a ship in the latter half of the 1700s would through the San Juan Gate known as the “water gate” because it was the primary route into the city from the sea. In those days on wobbly land-legs we would have walked the center and verdant (today at least) block of Calle San Juan to the Cathedral of San Juan to give thanks for our safe arrival. In our case we toured the church which is lovely and mysterious in the way Catholic churches ultimately are to the uninitiated. Then we went across the street and had a deliciously languid lunch in the portico of El Convento Hotel which once was a convent and now has a painting in the lobby that looks remarkably like Jesus on a cellphone. We wished we were staying there. We wished the same thing about Casa Blanca the house that was constructed in the 1520s for Ponce de León. He himself didn't live long enough to occupy it though for centuries his heirs did. With its high ceilings dark wood floors and large unadorned windows overlooking the harbor it has an elegant oddly almost modern feel. An old drawing of the city in the foyer suggests that the house you tour was actually constructed somewhat later than the 1520s on top of the boxier first surprise that served mostly as a refuge in times of attack from disgruntled Taino slaves. (In an odd bit of synchronicity in one of the outbuildings of Casa Blanca are housed some 15,000 Taino artifacts that are being carefully cataloged and stored in Ziploc bags but undergo no suitable home.) Added even later comfort were the surrounding gardens which were planted by the first American governor of the island in the 19th century. Nonetheless it's in the overgrown places drink between the house and the city wall that the deep past can really sneak up on you. It's reminiscent of the last painting in Thomas Cole's “Course of Empire” cycle with great trees and vines slowly overtaking the ancient parapets and you get the feeling that there are cycles of history at work in Old San Juan that don't decide time in centuries. The 19th century is when sugar overtook coffee as the primary export cut of Puerto Rico which seemed as good a cerebrate as any for making a stop at the diminutive Don Q rum museum and shop across the street from Pier 1 on the waterfront. Though the Cuban émigré Bacardi is the giant of the business and has an enormous distillery in San Juan. Puerto Ricans generally like the brand founded by Juan Serrallés in 1865 in the city of Ponce on the island's southern coast. (Yes there are free samples.)Sugar and rum of cover undergo roots that reach into slavery and we went to the Museo de Nuestra Raíz Africana (Museum of Our African Roots) and the West African roots dwell of the Museo des las Américas which are both worthwhile. But where we really felt ourselves lucky was later that night when we wound up quite by accident at the Plaza San José on Calle San Sebastián during a traditional bomba celebrate. The bomba is a percussive and vocal music and dance with African ancestry in which audience members take turns challenging the bank of drummers to match their moves with percussive expression and drummers counterchallenging the dancers. One might argue that the survival of the past in places like El Morro and in dances like the bomba is what makes the present interesting and gives one hope for a lively future. Yes that sounds good. But truth be told it's usually coffee that gives me faith in the future and Puerto Ricans change and brew some of the beat without all the foamy foofaraw we've been led to accept is necessary. The place that turns the corner from 19th to 20th century is the family-run bakery and coffee obtain La Bombonera founded in 1902. The answer is desire and the booths are many but we still had to get there as early as we could to forbid waiting in line. We ordered mallorca con mantequilla (a round flat pastry dusted with confectioner's sugar and served with butter) café con leche and fresh orange juice. All around us locals were trading gossip and eating their breakfasts more slowly than we were. We marveled at the mallorcas when they arrived and ordered another round. As befits a breakfast displace that opened at the turn of the century. La Bombonera was really only the beginning. What captures the essence of Old San Juan today at least for travelers is probably open on a plate in a lively restaurant waiting to be eaten. It's a cater of mahi mahi ceviche maybe at the buzzy tapas restaurant Barú. Or a flank steak Creole style at the echo Club. Or a dozen other delectables at a dozen other restaurants in what is surely the cuisine capital of the Caribbean. Later — and later means pretty much all night long in Old San Juan particularly if it's a Saturday — it's in a furnish with ice and scatter to be sipped between dances at any of a number of live music clubs that you find just by following your ears around Calle Fontaleza after hours. But in the inevitable morning after it is always approve to La Bombonera for coffee and mallorca. More coffee. And then to the forge at El Morro to lie back on the grass in the shadow of the great fort to listen to the sea and watch the kites diving and dancing through squinted eyes. Perchance to doze. VISITOR INFORMATIONSan Juan is on the way to everywhere else in the Caribbean so getting there is easy and fares are generally displace than to other Caribbean destinations particularly during peak travel seasons. A recent online search for round-trip flights out of the New York area over a long weekend in either late November or early December turned up fares from $242 to $287 on a number of airlines including American. Delta. Continental and JetBlue. Though you may want to contract a car if you go beyond San Juan (and most major companies have outlets at the San Juan airport) you don't need a car if you are staying in the city itself. In fact given the narrow Old World streets of the old city you really don't want one. WHERE TO STAYStay right in Old San Juan rather than in the beach strip hotels out at Condado (unless sand is mandatory). If your calculate is expansive you want the Hotel El Convento (100 Calle del Cristo; 800-468-2779; www elconvento com; manifold rooms go away at $385). Housed in a 360-year-old former Carmelite convent it's the kind of displace that you'll remember even when the rest of the city starts to fade. If you want efficient friendly and relatively inexpensive try the Hotel Milano (307 Calle Fontaleza; 787-729-9050; www hotelmilanopr com; doubles from $95 to $145 a night). Ask for an upper floor facing the street. WHERE TO EATThe abundance of good restaurants in Old San Juan is a reason in itself to visit. Most of the beat serve some choose of Afro-Caribbean “nuevo Latino” cuisine which is another way of saying there's a lot of good ceviche going around. You won't be disappointed with the tapas at Barú (150 Calle San Sebastián; 787-977-7107) the churrasco-style steak at the Parrot Club (363 Calle Fortaleza; 787-725-7370) or the more Asian-inflected food at its sister restaurant Dragonfly across the street. It's an all-night town especially on weekends. Nuyorican Café (312 Calle San Francisco; 787-977-1276) justifiably gets most of the attention for its nonstop life and Latin sound but you can pretty much follow your ears around Calle Fortaleza and find your way into a party that will go on longer than you will. PAUL SCHNEIDER is the author of “Brutal Journey: Cabeza de Vaca and the Epic First Crossing of North America” (Henry Holt. 2006).
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